The marae is at the heart of Maori life. In physical terms it consists of a meeting house, or whare nui, a dining room, or whare kai, and a place to sleep, or whare moe, usually situated around a central courtyard. But spiritually, a marae is more than the sum of its parts. It encompasses not only the sacred buildings and the beautiful art that is displayed on them, but also the people who belong to it and their ancestors.
To a member of the marae it is simply home, the place where all things are familiar and they truly belong. Marae are also the places that big events happen, such as weddings, funerals, birthdays, or discussions. Non-Maori, and even non-New Zealanders are often invited to such events, or even just invited onto the marae to experience life there.
What to Know Before Entering the Marae
It might be a good idea to ask what to bring for each specific marae and visit. Packing will also depend on whether or not the stay is an overnight one. If it is, mattresses, pillows and sheets will generally be provided but it is a good idea to bring a sleeping bag or a blanket with you, as well as toiletries and a towel and sleeping clothes. A koha (small gift, usually of money) may also be expected.
When entering the marae for the first time, a group will be given a powhiri, or traditional welcoming ceremony. When arriving for an event such as a funeral, or tangi, it is polite to wait until there are several people at the gateway to the marae so they can all be welcomed in together. Here is more information on how to behave during a powhiri, and how to behave during a tangi.
Life on the Marae
The first thing people notice when entering a marae is the whare nui (big house) which faces the entrance. It usually has elaborately carved frames in front and a carved figure on the apex. It is named after an honored ancestor and the carved frames represent his arms, the figure his head, the ridge pole his backbone and the rafters his ribs. The dining room is often named after his wife.
People must take off their shoes before entering a whare nui. Inside are elaborately carved panels and figures, representing gods and ancestors, as well as woven wall panels. These can also be seen in some of the major museums of New Zealand, such as Te Papa (National Museum) and the Auckland Museum. Meetings might take place in here, or singing, or this may even be where visitors spend the night.
Eating together is an important part of life on the marae and when a big event is happening, the kitchen seems to work without pause to feed the multitudes. If this is the case, it is polite not to linger over the meal, as others may be waiting for a seat. The traditional meal is a hangi, or local food cooked in an underground oven heated with hot stones, but this is probably not the everyday meal for the marae. Grace will be said before the meal.
An offer to help, even just to wash a few dishes will be appreciated. Alcohol is usually not allowed on marae except in small amounts for occasions like a wedding. Never sit on a table or bench where food is prepared or eaten, and never sit on a pillow as the head is considered sacred.
When the time comes to sleep, everyone beds down in the same room on mattresses on the floor. Guests will probably be to the right of the door, with the more important people closer to the door. When guests wake up, especially if they are leaving that day it is polite to tidy away all their belongings. Before the group leaves there will be a poroporaki (farewell) with speeches of thanks and songs.
It is natural to be nervous when going into an unfamiliar situation, but visitors are welcomed with warmth and taken care of during their stay. The most important thing to remember when visiting a marae is respect, and a genuine enthusiasm for learning about the Maori way of life.
One way to see the traditions of the Maori without visiting New Zealand is to watch local movies such as Whale Rider, or Once Were Warriors.
Rachel Sawaya - Rachel Sawaya is a freelance writer from New Zealand (who also has US citizenship), and currently lives in Auckland, the big smoke of New ...
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